Komiss reborn?

Thriving thrift shops and the ethics of second-hand clothing in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia

Abstract

There’s has been apparent stigma in wearing used clothes among Mongolians, which still persists among older generation. Many people are familiar with the act of letting go one’s clothes by burning them or cutting the collars in case of giving away. Even if the clothes were given away, it’s most preferrable to donate within same kinship. In suchway, both giving and taking old clothes had certain stigma attached to it as Mongolians imagine one’s clothes accommodate their energy or spirit.  Such stigma has a root in religious belief and also had shaped further by the bad reputation of „komiss” clothes. The notion of Komiss was introduced around late 1990’s, when people started importing second hand clothes from China and Korea by bulk and selling them at the black market. Until recently, it would be disgraceful to buy from such second hand „komiss” clothes. However, the very same idea of selling old clothes was re-introduced with the western concept of „thrifting” as a result of globalisation, „komiss” clothes are now more trendy and preferred among young Mongolians. This paper will explore how nomadic tradition and understanding of ethic towards old clothes is being challenged by thrift culture.